The preceding two weeks saw men’s fashion designers from all around Europe come to showcase their collections for Fall 2023.
In general, the offerings were consistent with what one would assume for winter wear. People bundled up with thick sweaters, puffy coats, wool overcoats, and other layers of clothing. While the parade of checks and ties and the season’s bold color were certainly noteworthy, there was so much more to learn.
From the runways of Florence, Milan, and Paris, here are five noteworthy developments.
It’s time for a comeback of the tie
Every once in a while, there’s a fad that takes over both the high fashion runways and the streets. The menswear classic has amped up a notch for the runways. Although it has previewed by a smattering of neckties outside the presentations. Now is the time to dig out those old neckties from the back of your closet. Or those of your dad or grandpa and give them a good airing.
This season’s shows were a veritable sartorial museum of neckties. At Pitti Uomo 103 in Florence, guest designer Martine Rose showcased a collection in her signature sloppy, counterculture aesthetic, complete with silk ties scattered around that sometimes matched the patterns on the shirts. A gigantic necktie-cum-dress with artwork by Charles Jeffrey Loverboy stood out among the colorful ties he displayed in Milan. Trompe l’oeil outfits with stretched collars and curved lines that converted bare chests into tie look-alikes opened Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ Prada presentation; afterward, actual ones were shown in colors perfectly suited to collared shirts. Both MSGM and Magliano opted for a less formal appearance by undoing their knots and wearing their ties with their shirts untucked.
The cutting-edge the margins
Because of its undulating movement, strands of a fringe are aesthetically pleasing. As for men’s fashion, it’s been on full display for the last two weeks.
A few brands used the conventional scarf fringe in their designs. Belgian cult designer Jan-Jan Van Essche was also a featured guest label at Pitti Uomo in Florence, where his blanket-like shawls with exquisite fringe tickled the floor. In Milan, Fendi showed out shawls and scarves with matching edging. Fendi’s purple hoodie with fringe hemline was the last nail in the trend’s coffin.
From then on, the intricate details of the accessories at Charles Jeffrey Loverboy and Magliano could be recognized with ease, even when worn subtly. In addition, Hed Mayner of Paris tried out raw hems on his jackets, creating what he called a “micro fringe.”
Purple is a little patchy in places
Every season has its own unique, eye-catching hue, and purple looks to be the one for Fall 2023.
At Fendi, Silvia Venturini Fendi debuted an upscale line of modern, casual men’s fashion wear infused with purple tones. At JW Anderson, the color purple was featured on a number of bold leather pieces, such as a motorcycle jacket and hardware-adorned boots.
After Alessandro Michele left Gucci, the brand debuted a new line that included a lavender peak lapel double-breasted jacket and a purple overcoat. In Paris, slimmer versions of both were shown by Dries Van Noten, who showcased his take on the latter in luxurious purple velvet.
Blue marble re-created purple camouflage, along with purple sunglasses, coats, jeans, and shoes. Kim Jones presented a more subdued collection for Dior Men, with a coat and a skirt made of purple Donegal tweed. The gloomy Yohji Yamamoto used a reddish purple in his Fall 2023 collection.
Styles that are distinctly distinctive
Prep style seems to be on the upswing for the next year, as seen by the prevalence of clean cuts, neckties, and plaids on the runways.
The gun club check is made up of twilled bands of different colors to create a checkered pattern. When seen at a distance, a windowpane plaid, was the best plaid in their opinion. This classic style often appears on heavier, warmer sports coats and trousers. That’s how Nigo showed it off at Kenzo, with other applications including shorts, an outerwear piece, and other plaids. Walter Van Beirendonck, who has lately gravitated toward neon colors and latex (and whose work has seldom connected with prep wear). It is used in a stunning houndstooth pattern in traditional colors on jackets.
Dries Van Noten did the checks, while Mike Amiri put a hip, modern spin on traditional argyle patterns for his namesake line. To bring together the best of the past and the future, Louis Vuitton invited guest designer Colm Dillane. Best known for his work on the KidSuper series, to reimagine plaids in a glitchy aesthetic.
The Apres Ski Scene
Even though we expected to see skiwear-like designs (we did call these men’s fashion collections “traditional cold-weather collections”). These outfits had their own unique style. First of all, unlike when a brand may release a skiwear capsule, the outerwear didn’t seem like it was trying too hard. Secondly, the beauty of skiing has generally appreciated.
While Giorgio Armani and Louis Vuitton presented ski-ready pieces like down-filled parkas, (very pricey) snow tights, warm mittens, and headbands. It was Gucci and Acne that really drove home the skiwear concept by emphasizing the après-ski aesthetic.
At Gucci, the references were more subtle, such as long grey ribbed socks that evoked the leg warmers of yore. Also, a grey ribbed hoodie and sweatpants mimicked traditional base layers. The odd Acne collection included knee-high socks with compression-inspired bodycon shirts and one-pieces. Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson’s collection included several pairs of leggings. Fair Isle knits, gloves, boots, and goggles were all part of one Charles Jeffrey Loverboy’s outfit inspired by the Alps.
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